Q&A: Honoring

Tyler Cofield • September 13, 2025

Q&A: Honoring

My response - "Hey! This issue is often referred to as an “inability to honor,” which means one dog doesn’t respect the fact that another dog has been called to retrieve. It's usually the result of a lack of individual steadiness and discipline—discipline here meaning self-control, not punishment or correction. Many people mistakenly think discipline means punishment, but that's not the case. You can instill discipline without punishment. I've learned to clarify this with people.


First of all, you need to have a clear command for individual dogs to cast. This is the reason I use my dog's names to cast. For instance, a lot of people use only "Back" as a command to cast. This is obviously going to cause issues if multiple dogs are working together that use the same cast command...


Maturity is also a major factor when determining if dogs are ready to work together. You mentioned just getting another Lab—if one is a puppy and the other is mature; the younger dog may not be ready to work alongside the older one yet. Similarly, the mature dog might have training gaps that make working with another dog more challenging. Depending on each dog’s maturity and foundation, it could take months before they’re both ready to work as a team.


Assuming both dogs are mature enough for formal retrieving work, here’s my advice: Incorporate denials into your training regularly. Denials in retrieving are when you prevent a dog from retrieving a thrown dummy by making them stay in place while you go pick it up. I like to throw in some distractions—calling out other dog names or random words, making irregular body movement, etc.—to teach the dog to stay put until it’s their turn. A lead or training tab should also be used as it will help with timely corrections and prevent the dog from breaking before you call them.


Denials help condition the dog to understand that not every retrieve is for them. There’s a misconception that denying retrieves lowers their drive to retrieve, but that’s not true. It actually just helps prevent or mitigate overstimulation from the flight and fall of the dummy which could cause them to become disobedient and unsteady.


Another technique I use regularly is what I call “denial piles.” Have your dog “sit” or “place”, then throw several dummies into a pile. If the dog remains steady through all the throws, you go pick up all the dummies except one, then cast the dog to retrieve that one. If the dog breaks or is unsteady, you pick everything up and start again. Using a lead or tab here makes it easier to control and prevent the dog from becoming disobedient. A place stand is also a great tool that establishes a boundary that the dog will be less likely to leave. 


It’s also valuable to vary the time before you cast the dog to retrieve. I want my dogs to remain focused and poised until I call them—whether that’s 3 seconds or 10 minutes after the mark falls. I’ll never call an unsteady dog to retrieve until I’m confident they’re both calm and focused. 


Once both dogs can work individually with steadiness, try working together again. Do the same drills, but now have someone handle each dog on a lead to prevent them from breaking. Giving each dog ample distance from each other is also beneficial until you are confident in their ability to perform together. 


You can also work on honoring behavior in everyday situations, not just during retrieves. For example, I train my dogs to stop at doorways and wait for me to call them through. At mealtimes, I’ll have them sit together in a pile while I prepare and place their bowl in their kennels, then call them one at a time to eat. These are just some of the daily activities I use to help reinforce self-control and obedience. If they become unsteady or disobedient, I impede by stepping in front of them when they try to move forward through the door or into their kennel to eat. This is a subtle correction and denial that teaches them to wait for their turn. I do practice this individually in a controlled environment before adding distractions like another dog, though. 


An inability to honor comes down to a lack of discipline and obedience standards set by you as the owner. The good news is that small adjustments to your training routine and lifestyle can make a huge difference in teaching your dogs steadiness and honoring."


By Tyler Cofield November 13, 2024
Feeding time is training time. Our dogs have some sort of steadiness or obedience training associated with their feed time. For our older dogs, it may just be a roll call with all of them sitting in a group or setting their bowls in their kennel and having them heel around the yard before releasing them to eat. The puppies have a a similar regiment but our focus is on establishing behaviors and skills that pup will utilize for the rest of their life. There is no denying that the puppy months are the most impressionable time in a dog’s life. Why not take advantage of that time when pup is most easily influenced? We start with a basic sit. Our “sit” command is also an implied stay – meaning we train the dog to “sit” until told otherwise. We do this by holding the food bowl over pup’s head and saying “Sit”. Pup’s natural tendency will be to sit as pup looks straight up at the bowl. When pup sits, we put the food bowl on the ground a few feet in front of pup. If at any time pup decides to move out of a sit then we pick the bowl back up and repeat the process. We enforce the implied sit by withholding the food bowl until the release command is given. The implied “sit” command is typically started around 10-12 weeks old and is the basis of teaching the pup to learn with us. This is also a skill that I’ll recommend people start with their older dog that has never had obedience training. This isn’t just a great initial skill for puppies but also for older dogs that are initiating training or need to maintain a level of obedience. Once pup has this down and you are confident in pup’s ability to remain steady, then you can expand on this skill. However, be mindful that you are working with a puppy that is still very immature. Keep it fun and engage their brain but keep reasonable expectations and understand their limitations. If what you are asking pup to do is too complex that day, simplify it to make pup successful! We feed our pups multiple times a day. That gives us an opportunity to have their undivided attention for several training sessions per day. It is surprising how easy and fun it is to progress during these times so long as you are diligent in doing so. We can engrain many great life skills that are so very beneficial to pup immediately and later in training. For instance, we eventually get to a “back” casting command during this time with a 3-4 month old pup. We may only do it for several feeding sessions and not again until pup is 7-8+ months old and in formal training. So far, the dogs that have ben the easiest to train have been the dogs that established desirable behaviors at feed time as young pups. Here is a list of some things we are currently doing with a couple of our young pups. It changes often as we dream up new scenarios to suit the needs and limitations of the individual pup. Back casts to food bowl. Known and unknown. If we do an unknown, we make it super short and simple. Trailing memory. Set the bowl down and heel pup away. Then send back to bowl. Roll call with multiple dogs. Sit all dogs and put their food bowls in their kennels. The most steady and relaxed dog goes first. Sit with bowl close by for an extended period of time before releasing. Start with minimal distractions and add distractions as pup progresses. Whistle stop while they are eating. Give the whistle stop command and separate pup from bowl. Pup learns that the sooner they sit and focus on handler the sooner they can get back to eating. Whistle stop when they come out of a food bowl after finishing. Then recall and/or cast them to another bowl. Sit pup. Walk away set down food bowl. Recall pup with whistle then sit at heel. Release to eat.
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